Saturday, October 10, 2015

Leclerk Solo in the Torre Valley of Patagonia + Pillar Rock in UK + Reverse PCT - Snow Creek to San Jacinto

Mark-Andre Leclerk just solo climbed in the Torre Valley Patagonia (Facebook  Patagonia Vertical)
The English translation starts on the sixth line under the Spanish
Slab and Notch - Pillar Rock in the UK - Trip report with pictures by Mark Hallam (Summitpost)
Reverse PCT - Snow Creek to Fuller Ridge to San Jacinto to PS Tram (today) - pictures below
Apogee - Andreas Fransson and JP Auclair memorial film on

Marc-Andre Leclerc acaba de volver de otra misión en el Valle del Torre. Gracias al buen clima y a las condiciones veraniegas tenia en mente un proyecto ambicioso, pero al romperse una punta frontal de su grampon tuvo que cambiar de objetivo. Decidió enfocarse en vías de roca, haciendo la primera solitaria de la Voie de Benitiers (400m 7b+) en el Mocho, y la tercera solitaria de Rubio y Azul (350m 6c) en la Aguja de la Medialuna al día siguiente. En El Mocho escaló todo excep...
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Marc-André Leclerc just got back from another mission in the valley of the tower. Thanks to the good weather and summer conditions had in mind an ambitious project, but to break a tip front of his grampon had to change my goal. Decided to focus on ways of rock, making the first solitary de la voie de benitiers (400 M 7 b+) in the stool, and the third lonely blond and blue (350 M 6 (C) in the Needle from the croissant on the following day. In el mocho climbed everything except the long hard without rope, that made first with a little bit of artificial and of a second for free. In the needle from the halfmoon found the first long wet and by therefore climbed the variant gratton-Martorelo, just to the left. Did 99 % of the road without a rope, everything except two movements, one in the first half, the other in the upper part, where in a section climb a fissure fina parallel and to the right of the original line (6 B). Today, Marc-André celebrates 23 years of age. It is impressive that remain even so young is already starting to redefine the escalation in solitary confinement in alpine terrain.

Marc-Andre Leclerc just returned from yet another successful solo mission into the Torre Valley. With a solid good weather window and the climate being “summer like”, Marc-Andre had a big objetive in mind but, a broken crampon front-point on the way in, forced him to change plans. He focused on rock routes instead, doing the first solo ascent of the Voie de Benitiers (400m 5.12c) on El Mocho, and the third solo ascent of Rubio y Azul (350m 5.11) on Aguja de la Medialuna the next day. On El Mocho he climbed everything but the crux pitch free-solo. He lead the crux pitch using a clove hitch and some aid, and freed it on top-rope, using a Microtraction. On Aguja de la Medialuna he found the initial pitches wet, so he climbed the Gratton-Martorelo variation instead. He free-soloed the entire route except for one step across onto a gravelly hold in which he back-looped, and another move in which he stepped on a piton. In one section of the upper part he climbed a variation to the right, a thin crack (5.10+). He particularly liked the upper crack, steep and burly, and also the chimney that follows. Today Marc-Andre turns 23. Amazing that at such a young age he is starting to redefine what soloing in the mountains is.

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