4 Ridges of the Matterhorn in under 24 hours for Kacper Tekieli - from Rock and Ice magazine
Siberians climb Blok and Engels - from mountain.ru website
https://www.colinhaley.com/a-brief-visit-to-patagonia-and-reflections-on-hard-solo-climbing/ -- Colin Haley -- A brief visit to Patagonia, Reflections on Hard solo climbing
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/4-ridges-of-the-matterhorn-in-under-24-hours-for-kacper-tekieli/ -- 4 Ridges of the Matterhorn in under 24 hours for Kacper Tekieli
http://mountain.ru/news/index.php?id_class_news=0#22503 -- Siberians climb Blok and Engels
Siberians at the peaks of Blok and Engels. Climb Details
The peak of the Five-thousandth Block is adjacent to Aksu, but unlike it, it is more or less safe (Aksu is crowned with a snow-ice cap with which stones and ice constantly fly in the summer).
About the passed line:
The difference is approximately 800m, the wall part is 700m. The route length has not yet been considered, but the first 7 sections to the ice stream are close to 90, or they are hanging.
The area of Engels peak is now rarely visited by climbers, due to the fact that climbing to Engels peak requires well-coordinated work of a team of at least 3-4 people with experience in both technical and high-altitude ascents (Engels peak height is 6500 m). In the 70-80 years, routes of the highest complexity were laid along the North and North-East wall of Engels, awarded gold at the Union Championship:
Efimov, Gaas, Chunovkin. The wall drop is about 2000 meters, in places there are extended sections of overhangs, up to 300m.
Despite the popularity of the mountain during the Union, there is a “white spot” in the center of the wall, in the literal and figurative sense:
The route passes through the snowy fields in the center of the wall. Again, I would like to go the route to the maximum with free climbing, in a good style, as quickly as possible.
Meanwhile, the current message from the team (08.28.2019):
The weather turned bad. Today were all the charms of winter Archie. Dust avalanches constantly descend from the wall. A day passed a hundred meters. We climbed into the platform. Dry the oars
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