Monday, February 29, 2016

Nanga Parbat - The Bigger Picture + Gran Paradiso (Italy) + Finest Routes in the Alps + Nanga Parbat by Alpinist

Winter Nanga Parbat - The bigger picture and K2 preparations by Raheel Adnan
Gran Paradiso - Italy -  Pictures and commentary by Osvaldo Cardelina at summitpost
The finest routes in the Alps including Breithorn images and trip report
Nanga Parbat climbed in winter by Alpinist Magazine

 http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2016/02/winter-2016-first-winter-ascent-of_29.html -- Raheel Adnan -- Pakistan -- Winter Nanga Parbat - The bigger picture and K2
http://www.summitpost.org/great-heaven-gran-paradiso-dark-black-profiles-c-1/966529 -- OsvaldoCardelina -- Italy -- Gran Paradiso


http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=8196  -- The finest routes in the Alps

http://dmpmontagna.blogspot.com/2010/08/traversata-dei-breithorn-roccia-nera-b.html


http://alpinist.com/doc/web16a/newswire-nanga-parbat-climbed-in-winter  --  Nanga Parbat climbed in winter





 
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Saturday, February 27, 2016

Cerro Colorado - Chile Chico (Patagonia) + 3 Routes on Stanley Headwall in Day (BC) + Adventure Travel Tours + Verwall Alps (Tyrol)

Cerro Colorado - Chile Chico in Patagonia by Brazilians by Pataclimb.com
Marc-Andre Leclerk solos three routes on Stanley Headwall (Canada) in a day - Gripped.com
Adventure Travel Tours by National Geographic Expeditions
Austria Tirol - Verwall Alps - Edmund Graf hut and Hochkar trip report with pictures

http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/colorado_en.html -- Cerro Colorado - Chile Chico (Patagonia) by Brazilians
Another update of the Cerro Colorado, Chile Chico webpage. Many new routes from Brazilians Alessandro Haiduke and Otaviano Zibetti, amongst them the hardest climb to date, also corrections and a new route from Aldo Basquee. Click by Austin Siadak, "Trout" climbing "Young Gaucho".
http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/colorado_en.html



http://gripped.com/news/marc-andre-leclerc-solos-three-routes-on-stanley-headwall/ -- Marc-Andre Leclerk -- Canada -- Leclerk solos three routes on Stanley Headwall in a day (BC Canada)












https://www.facebook.com/Patagonia-Vertical-563620956987849/?pnref=story  -- Cerro Fitzroy
Forty years after the first ascent, Matteo Della Bordella and David Bacci did the second ascent of the Ragni route up Cerro Fitz Roy's Pilar Este. Thanks to Matteo Della Bordella for the photos, above 2016, below 1976. The lower picture archive from I Ragni di Lecco - Arrampicata Alpinism Climbing



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Friday, February 26, 2016

First Winter Ascent on Nanga Parbat + Aguja Bifida - Punta Filip W Face (Patagonia) + N. Timponogos (Utah) + Mulago Con Acento Video

First winter ascent on Nanga Parbat (today) by Alex Txikon, Simone Moro and Ali Sadpara
Aguja Bifida - Punta Filip West Face (Patagonia) by Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon
North Timponogos in Utah photos by Andy Sherpa
Mulago con acento Spanish Video from Facebook

 http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2016/02/winter-2016-first-winter-ascent-of.html -- Raheel Adnan -- Pakistan -- First winter ascent on Nanga Parbat
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43495





Alex Txikon
1 hr
Leher eginda, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro eta Tamara Lunger4Kn (7.200m) dira dagoeneko. Kontaktu laburra eta eskasa izan dugu Txikonekin. "Pozik eta harro" sentitzen dira egindakoarekin, jakina, baina gaurkoa "oso oso gogorra eta luzea" izan dela aitortu digu lemoaztarrak; tontor-trapezioa "uste baino tenteagoa" dela eta "espero baino izotz gehiago" aurkitu dutela azken kanalean. Bestalde, muturreko neke hutsak eta ondoezak (goraka aritu da lehen orduan) eraman dute Lunger tontorretik ez oso urrun amore ematera. Bihar goizeko 10:00etan ekingo diote BKranzko bideari.
Extremely tired, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger have already reached C4 (7.200m). Feel obviously happy and satisfyed, but admit that today's work was "very hard and long"; that the summit-trapeze is "steeper than expected" and terrain was "really icy" on the last couloir. On the other hand, it was just extreme fatigue and early-morning-pukes what made Lunger desist not very far away from summit. Tomorrow will begin to descend at 10:00am.
Derrengados, Alex Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Simone Moro y Tamara Lungerhan llegado ya al C4 (7.200m). Apenas una breve y entrecortada llamada por parte de Txikon para contarnos que se sienten obviamente felices y satisfechos, pero que la jornada ha sido "extremadamente dura y larga"; que el trapecio cimero es "bastante más pino" de lo que pensaba y que han encontrado el terreno también "más helado" de lo que esperaban. Por otro lado, ha sido simplemente el cansancio extremo y el malestar físico (vomitonas a primera hora) lo que ha hecho desistir a Lunger no muy lejos de la cumbre. Mañana emprenderán el regreso a CB a partir de las 10:00 de la mañana.
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https://www.facebook.com/563620956987849/photos/a.572214819461796.156967.563620956987849/1307956222554315/?type=3&theater -- Aguja Bifida - Punta Filip - West Face (Patagonia) by Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon
Pete Fasoldt and Eli Simon climbed ten new pitches (6c A0) into Su Patagonia. The climbing is a mix of great crack climbing on solid rock and scary wet climbing tip-toeing around large loose blocks. Walking out Eli got attacked by a mama cow and had to dive for cover to avoid getting crushed



 http://slcsherpa.blogspot.com/2016/02/north-timp.html -- Andy Sherpa -- Utah -- Mt Timponogos in Utah
https://www.facebook.com/malagaconacento/videos/905135752915992/


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Thursday, February 25, 2016

Towards C4 on Nanga Parbat 7100 meters + Pico Pirineos in Mexico + Toure Rouge (France) 2899m

Towards C4 on Nanga Parbat - the final battle from C4 expeted tomorrow morning - Raheel Adnan
Pico Pirineos in Mexico rock climb at Monterrey - report and pictures - Planetmountain.com
Tour Rouge in France 2899 meters trip report with pictures from Silvia Mazzani of Summitpost

 http://altitudepakistan.blogspot.com/2016/02/winter-2016-towards-c4-and-setting.html -- Raheel Adnan -- Pakistan -- Toward C4 , on Nanga Parbat - the final battle
Update - now in C4 - 7100 meters -- The climbers are in C4 (somewhere around 7100m), now. Expect the final bid to start early morning, tomorrow.




 http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43491 -- Pico Pirineos in Mexico - new rock climb at Monterrey by Italian climbers



 http://www.summitpost.org/tour-rouge/725447 -- Silvia Mazzani -- Italy -- Tour Rouge in France 2899 meters
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