Thursday, February 18, 2016

Cerro Piergiorgio W Face + Aguja Volonqui E Face + Cerro San Lorenzo SW Face + Picos De Europa (Spain) Video

Cerro Piergiorgio West Face (Patagonia)  by Fasoldt and Shaffer  --
Aguja Volonqui East Face (Patagonia) by Kauffman and Shaffer  --
Cerro San Lorenzo South West Face (Patagonia) by Ecuadorians  --
Pastores Des Los Picos De Europa (Spain) Video

The far right side of Cerro Piergiorgio’s west face saw a lot of action this season. To the right of Greenpeace there is a beautiful pillar, where two lines got climbed. The first was reported earlier, started by Jonathan Schaffer and Joel Kauffman, finished by “Jumbo” Yokoyama and Takaaki Nagato. Soon after Jonathan went back, with Pete Fasoldt, to climb a line further right. "Skull Fuck" climbs 12 pitches with difficulties to 6c+ (5.11c/d), following hand and finger cracks (no off-widths!). A repeat requires doubles to #3 and one #4. This was Jonathan's third new route of the season, which include an impressive new line on the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy, climbed also with Pete.

In ancient times, more than a month ago, before the five weeks of sunny weather the area enjoyed, Jonathan Schaffer and Joel Kauffman climbed “Chorblito”, 14 pitches with difficulties to WI4 and M7. Chorblito, is a word that describes the act of smoking weed all day, talking shit, chilling.

In early January, Ecuadorians Felipe Guarderas, Nicolás Navarrete and Roberto Morales ( Ecuador Escala ) made an attempt on Cerro San Lorenzo’s Pilar Sur, retreating after four pitches due to rockfall. During that attempt Guarderas was hit by ice and headed to basecamp. Navarrete and Morales contoured the mountain via its south side and climbed the glacial tongue immediately west of the 1986 Buscaini-Metzeltin line. They crossed the bergschrund at 2500m, traversing below an arete, to some tricky glacier travel and a steep ice slope (to 75˚) to reach Cumbre Buscaini. They descended the line of ascent, down-climbing all but one section which they rappelled. They named their route Haba-Tar (800m 75˚).       Please log in     Please log in

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