Sunday, February 7, 2016

Cerro Fitzroy S & N Face + Cerro Piergiorgio W Face + Gusela del Nuvolau 2595m + Mt Baldy Rescues + Colorado N.P Video     Log in for link

Pete Fasoldt and Jonathan Schaffer have climbed a new line on the north face of Cerro Fitz Roy. The started at the lowest point of the wall, following a 1985 attempt by Marcelo Aguilar, Vincent Banderet and Paul Maillefer, joining briefly the Afanassieff, to then head to the Gran Hotel which they reached after 16 pitches (5 to 6b+). In the headwall above they climbed a massive off-width crack, 12 pitches -three in common with Clínica de Aventura- with difficulties to 7a+ and one move of A0, the only aid move in the entire route. At the top of the headwall they joined the Afanassieff which they followed to the summit. In all they climbed 1,600 meters of which 25 pitches are new. The bivied at the Gran Hotel twice, on the way up and on the descent, rappelling Tehuelche. Somewhere in the upper part of the route they run into a hummingbird, clearly lost, hence the name of the route: “Pretty Bird”.

Slovaks Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň have climbed a new route in the south face of Cerro Fitz Roy, to the left of the Canadian Route, which it joins after 13 pitches. They named the route the Asado (400m M8 7a+ C2 - 500m altogether). The first four pitches were iced and hence were dry-tooled. The following pitches climb cracks finger size to off-width size. They climbed alpine style, bivying on top of pitch eight and at the summit. The pitches go as follows: M6, 40m; M7, 35m; M7+, 50m; M8, 50m; 6b, 45m; 7a+, A0, 40m; 6a, 50m; 6b+, C1, 50m; 6b, C2, 50m; 6a, 55m; 5, C2, 45m; 4, C2, 40m; 6c, 55m, then it joins the Canadian Route and in turn the Boris Simoncic Route. Gear: doubles to #4, one each #5 and #6, TCUs, stoppers and 10 pitons.

Katsutaka "Jumbo" Yokoyama and Takaaki Nagato climbed a new line on the unclimbed pillar on the far right side of Cerro Piergiorgio’s west face. “Pilar Canino” climbs 16 pitches (600m climbing; 500m vertical gain) with difficulties to 7b (tips/layback), with many pitches being off-widths, some up to 6c+. They climbed the route free, redpointing every pitch. The name (canine) refers to the fact that the route “bites” and also remembers Kenshi Imai (canine in Japanese is “kenshi”), a friend that disappeared during a solo reconnaissance on the unclimbed north face of Chamlang (7319m), Nepal, this past November. Joel Kauffman and Jonathan Schaffer had climbed to within three pitches from the top a couple of weeks earlier, but gave up because of water and ice in the last section. They are the ones that found this gem. For a repeat carry doubles 03 to #3, 1 ea. #4 to #6, stoppers.
Aguja El Tridente West Face

Katsutaka “Jumbo” Yokoyama and Takaaki Nagato climbed a new line in the centre of the west face of Aguja El Tridente, in the Cerro Pollone Group. “Knobmania” climbs 10 pitches (400m climbing; 300m vertical gain) with difficulties to 7c. They climbed the route free. The crux pitch was done pinkpoint (with pre-placed gear), on the fourth go, the others were redpointed. The name refers to the second pitch, that has a beautiful traverse on knobs. For a repeat carry doubles to #3, 1 ea. 4 & 5, 6 TCUs, stoppers. -- Gusela del Nuvolau (2595 meters) via Dellajo -- Silvia Mazzani -- Italy -- Mt Baldy 10 hikers rescued after one death earlier amid icy treacherous conditions - Update

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