Russian climber Alexander Gukov in peril on Latok 1, Rescue in progress - Rock and Ice
Latok 1 Update from Desnivel Facebook translated from Spanish
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http://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/el-mal-tiempo-pausa-el-rescate-de-alexander-gukov-en-el-latok-i
Updated Saturday 28 May at 17,30
The world of mountaineering is awaiting the rescue of the Russian mountaineer Alexander Gukov at Latok 1 . The bad weather has prevented so far that the helicopters can fly from Skardu. The plan of the rescue team is to take advantage of the first window of good weather so that they fly to the base camp, because once there it will be easier to fly in the next window of good weather , however small it may be, and try to rescue .
For this they need, in addition to very good weather that there is no wind,because the rescue plan is to bring the helicopter to the wall with a rope hanging (rescue technique known as Long Line ) that Alexander will have to catch and tie up for so you can be rescued .
It seems that this is the only possibility of rescuing him since he is at a high and complicated point in Latok 1, where it is difficult and dangerous to deposit a rescue group. This rescue plan is complicated and risky for both pilots and Alexander. The rescue team also considers, if the conditions do not allow for the moment the rescue operation in Long Line, to make it arrive provisions (food, gas and a satellite phone).
The good news is that Alexander (who on the other hand is running out of battery from the team through which he can communicate) has been able to set up the store on a small platform .
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Latok I. It's been another day. Sasha Gooks is still one at the height of 6200 m on latoke. The weather was gone yesterday. Helicopters all day stood at the starting position, the rescuers were waiting for the go, but not rained.
From the food, the sleigh has a half of the snickers. He's got gas. Less than 1 % of the battery charge on Rockstar (the device through which the link is maintained with it).
In order to take it off the wall, you need a perfectly clean sky and a lack of wind.
Then the helicopter will be able to fly as close as possible and drop the longlajn that Sasha will have to catch, buckle up and fly to base camp.
It's a mega-difficult task for everyone, for the pilots and for him himself.
Sanya is on the mountain for 20 days, from the moment of the break, it's been 18 days when they and Sergei Glazunovym have been putting heavy things in a high-Height Camp at 5512 M, taking a stock of products
Three days, after the death of serëži, Sasha is trapped in a snow cocoon, so he calls his parking lot. He managed to pave the tent on a tiny shelf.
Here he is waiting for help.
The weather is promised tomorrow, but if there is at least a small window today, try to throw it away (food, gas, satellite phone).
4:30 am (2:30 in Moscow): Mount a, visibility no. Next weather check at base camp and connection with pilots at 5:30 (3:30 am on Moscow). The result is the same.
Plan for today: at the slightest clarification, helicopters fly to base camp and make zabrosku. The Pilots will try to fly as close as possible.
If there's a window, the body body will be lifted today.
Improving the weather tomorrow. Helicopters will arrive with some fuel supply and stay on the base to not miss even a tiny window.
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