Mt Edith Cavell - E Ridge + Shispare 7611m N/R (W Karakorum) + Middle Palisade & Norman Clyde Peak +

Mt Edith Cavell - East Ridge  --  trip report with pictures by Steph Abegg on her blog
Japanese climbers open a new route on Shispare 7611m in the Western Karakorum - up-climbing
Middle Palisade and Norman Clyde Peak in the Sierras - pictures by Meetup Sacramento Mntneers
Marcel Remy, at age 94, on the Miroir de l'Argentine - report by up-climbing.com

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/edithcavell    --  Steph Abegg  --  Washington  --  Mt Edith Cavell - East Ridge

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/ghiaccio-misto/news/kazuya-hiraide-kenro-nakajima-nuova-via-shispare  --  Japanese open a new route on Shispare 7611 m in the Western Karakorum

https://www.meetup.com/sierramountaineeringclub/photos/28112006/  --  Middle Palisade and Norman Clyde Peak

http://www.up-climbing.com/en/multipitch/news/marcel-remy-94-anni-miroir-de-largentine

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In 1870, Marguerite 'Meta' Claudia Brevoort attempted to become the first climber, male or female, to stand atop the highest point of la Meije, one of the last, great unclimbed Alps in the Massif des Ecrins in France. In this Mountain Profile essay from Alpinist 59, Associate Editor Paula Wright relates the adventurous life of Brevoort, her nephew William Coolidge, and their dog, Tschingel. Photos courtesy of The Alpine Club. Read the story at Alpinist.com: http://www.alpinist.com/…/wfeature-a59-mtnprofile-essay-met…

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Mt Kidd (Canadian Rockies) + Bear Creek Spire & Dade (Sierras) + Matterhorn - Spanish Fatality & 1 Injured + Ogre by Night (A Huber)

Mt Kidd in the Canadian Rockies - trip report with pictures by Steph Abegg
Bear Creek Spire and Dade (Sierras) - trip report with pictures by Leor Pantilat
Matterhorn - One of three Spanish mountaineers dies. One suffers a broken leg - Montagna.tv
Ogre by night - schedule by Alexander Huber - from Stefan Nestler's blog

http://www.stephabegg.com/home/tripreports/britishcolumbia/kidd     --  Steph Abegg  --  Washington  --  Mt Kidd - Canadian Rockies

https://pantilat.wordpress.com/2017/08/28/bear-creek-spire-dade/  --  Leor Pantilat  --  California  --  Bear Creek Spire and Dade (Sierras)

http://www.montagna.tv/cms/112590/cervino-morto-uno-dei-tre-alpinisti-spagnoli-in-salvo-gli-altri-due-recuperata-alpinista-con-gamba-rotta/ -- Matterhorn : One of three Spanish mountaineers has died. One had a broken leg

UPDATE, 31/08/2017, 5:30 pm - One of the three Spanish mountaineers stuck on the Matterhorn died. They reported by radio to the Alpine Avalanche Rescue his two climbing companions, who managed to escape by reaching the Capanna Carrel hut (3,830 meters).

From Wednesday afternoon, the contact between the three and the single Rescue Center had stopped. They were blocked at 4,400 meters on Jordan's ladder, along the normal Italian way to the summit. Rescuers will recover them when conditions permit. Because of the bad weather, the helicopter can not reach them.

Source: ANSA

UPDATE, 31/08/2017, 2.30 pm - As reported by AostaCronaca, the rescue team, from the ground to help the Polish woman who had fractured a leg in the Colle del Leone area, managed to recover the mountaineer. 

There are still some updates about the Spanish rope. 

UPDATE, 31/08/2017, 12:50 - It was not enough to save the three mountaineers blocked yesterday morning on the Matterhorn, 50 meters below the summit.



To complicate the situation of the Alpine Valley of Valdostan now a new intervention has been added to recover a pair of Polish mountaineers who, during the ascent, in the area of ​​the Colle del Leone, at 3,600 meters, towards the Capanna Carrel, have fallen. She fractured a leg. The companion, as they had the drain phones, went down to the Duca degli Abruzzi hut at Oriondé (2,802 meters) to give the alarm. It is not, however, able to provide accurate directions to locate it exactly.

As we know from the chronicle of the intervention we are following yesterday afternoon, bad weather conditions, with rain and low visibility, are preventing the helicopter from being used. The rescuers have so decided to land. 

Of the Spanish rope, however, there is no news yet. 

UPDATE, 31/08/2017, 10.30 am - The telephone contact between the Aosta Valley's only emergency rescue center and the three Spanish mountaineers blocked at 4,400 meters above Jordan on the normal route Matterhorn.

The recovery operations, both on the Italian and the Swiss side, have failed because of the probative weather conditions which, in the meantime, have deteriorated. The rope, engaged in the descent from the summit, had asked for help probably for a problem due to rope damage.

Yesterday, until sunset, the Valdostan and Swiss alpine rescue waited in vain for a clear light that would allow the helicopter to approach. The two centers remain in constant contact to be able to assess in the coming hours the conditions for a possible mission.

Source: ANSA

30/08/2017, 5 pm - A rope of three Spanish climbers is currently blocked on the Maverick on the "Jordan Stairway", along the normal Italian, about 50 meters below the summit, at a particularly exposed point, probably for problems with the ropes. Rescue was alerted in the afternoon.

The alpine Helicopter Helicopter Valdostano attempted to reach the three without flying due to bad weather at high altitude. 

At the moment the SAV, who is in touch with mountaineers on the wall, is considering how to proceed.


http://blogs.dw.com/adventuresports/ogre-by-night-schedule/  --  Ogre by night - A Huber

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Eight Climbers Die in Alps + Norman Clyde Peak (Sierras) + Monarch Mtn SW Pillar F/A + Bear's Tooth (Montana)

Eight climbers die in Alps on weekend - reports by Gripped Magazine and Guardian (UK)
Norman Clyde Peak (13,921 ft) in the Sierras - pictures by calicokat on his blog
Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn
Bear's Tooth (Montana) -  trip report with pictures from Matt Lemke at summitpost

http://gripped.com/news/eight-climbers-die-in-alps-on-weekend/  --  Eight Climbers die in the Alps on weekend
https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/aug/27/eight-mountain-climbers-die-in-accidents-in-austrian-and-italian-alps     

https://calicokat.smugmug.com/Hiking/Sierra-Nevada/2017/Norman-Clyde-Peak-13921-August-2017/  --  Calicokat  --  California  --  Norman Clyde Peak (13,921 ft) - pictures

http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/canada-monarch-mountain-sw-pillar-first-ascent-by-simon-richardson-and-michael-rinn.html      --  Canada's Monarch Mountain SW Pillar first ascent by Richardson and Rinn

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/71248/canada_coast_mountain_first_ascents_by_richardson_and_rinn





http://www.summitpost.org/bears-tooth/1005840 --  Matt Lemke  --  Bear's Tooth - Montana



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Five Killed in Zillertal Alps (Austria) + Safe on Colorado's Deadly 14ers + Minaret (Mont Blanc Massif) + Italians Climb Khan Tengri

Zillertal Alps accident kills five in Austria  --  BBC News report
Staying safe on Colorado's deadly 14ers - report from Alan Arnette on his blog
Alpinism: Minaret - Rasta Metal (Mont Blanc Massif) trip report with pictures by Philippe Gatta
An Italian duo summits Khan Tengri - from Montagna.tv website

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-41067598  --  Zillertal Alps accident kills five climbers in Austria

http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/08/28/staying-safe-on-colorados-deadly-14ers/  --  Alan Arnette  --  Colorado  --  Staying safe on Colorado's deadly 14ers

http://www.philippegatta.fr/blog/alpinism-minaret-rasta-metal-mont-blanc-massif/  --  Philippe Gatta  --  France  --  Alpinism : Minaret - Rasta Metal (Mont Blanc Massif)

http://www.montagna.tv/cms/112276/cordata-tutta-vicentina-in-vetta-al-khan-tengri/

A vicentine rope, made up of Giampaolo Casarotto and Silvia Favretto, came to the summit at Khan Tengri, 7,000 at the border between Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China. The route is the north, the most complex data over 3000 meters in altitude. Roberto Ferrari, third member of the expedition, had to give up. Here is the account of Giampaolo Casarotto.Departed from Italy on July 20 with flight to Istanbul and then to Almaty, Kazakhstan. Moving by car about 300 km to the border with China and Kyrgyzstan, at Kalkara village, about 2000 meters.A day of acclimatization with a walk up to 3200 meters and the 23 we did the helicopter flight that in about 45 minutes we will descend on the north glacier where the base camp is located at 4000 meters.Next days we go to field 1 at approximately 4600 meters, then to field 2 to 5500 meters and climb to the top of Chapaeva at 6150 meters. We go down to the base camp for a few days of rest and then return from the base camp to field 2 directly. We take the tent and the materials needed in field 3 to about 5950. We stay a day stalemate due to the strong wind and on August 6, at 2.30 am, we start climbing to the summit. At about 3:30 pm, we can tap the small cross of the Khan Tengry.

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Matterhorn Fatal Fall + Running Fatality on Mont Blanc + Climbing the Breithorn (Alps) + 5 Climbers Die in Zillertal Alps (Austria)

Matterhorn, fatal fall for a mountaineer - report from Montagna.tv (An Italian website)
Another runner dies on the normal French route on Mont Blanc - Desnivel and Chamonix.net
How to climb the Breithorn - Article with pictures by the BMC.co.uk
Zillertal Alps accident kills five climbers in Austria - by the BBC News


http://www.montagna.tv/cms/112408/cervino-caduta-fatale-per-un-alpinista-2/  --  Matterhorn, fatal fall for a mountaineer

The causes of the fall of a mountaineer, whose generalities have not yet been made known, from the Swiss side of the Matterhorn are still unknown.

The man, according to the police in the canton of Valais, fell for a hundred meters, ending in a canal. Unwilling the robe companion, who was not tied to the victim.

The incident occurred at 13:00 yesterday, August 25, at 3,400 meters. The two climbers started Thursday and reached the summit (4,448 meters) the following day. After sleeping at the Solvay Hut (4,003 meters), they were continuing the descent to return to Zermatt when the accident occurred.

https://www.chamonix.net/english/news/french-trail-runner-found-dead-bosses-ridge --  French trail runner found dead on the Bosses Ridge (Mont Blanc Massif)
http://desnivel.com/alpinismo/fallece-otro-runner-en-la-ruta-normal-francesa-del-mont-blanc   --  Another runner dies on the normal French route on Mont Blanc

Another runner dies on the normal French route of Mont Blanc
Matthieu Craff, a 28-year-old Frenchman, had made a night climb. It suffered a fall of 300 m when leaving the footprint to about 4,500 m. It went without crampons or harness. It is the second runner killed in a week in the same area.

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/how-to-climb-the-breithorn  --  How to climb the Breithorn

http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-41067598?ocid=socialflow_facebook&ns_mchannel=social&ns_campaign=bbcnews&ns_source=facebook  --  Zillertal Alps accident kills five climbers in Austria

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