Sunday, February 18, 2018

Rainbow Mtn & Wall, Terrace Canyon Pk + New Peaks in Chilean Patagonia + Winter K2 & Everest Updates

Rainbow Mountain, Rainbow Wall, and Terrace Canyon Peak (Nevada) slide show from Bob Burd
Canadian climbs new peaks in Chilean Patagonia and Colin Haley on Punta Kellogg &; Aguja Kakito
Winter K2 and Everest updates by Alan Arnette on his blog -- Bob Burd -- California -- Rainbow Mountain, Rainbow Wall, Terrace Canyon Peak    -- Canadian climbs new peaks in Chilean Patagonia -- Colin Haley (USA) -- Punta Kellogg and Aguja Kakito (Patagonia)

@austin_siadak during a little 24+ hour excursion into the mountains yesterday. After approaching through Paso Guillaumet and climbing up to the Brecha de los Italianos, we climbed northward along the crest of the ridge, making what I believe were the second ascents of Punta Kellogg and Aguja Kakito - relatively minor summits, but ones I had never climbed before. Spending most of the day on the crest of the range exposed us to cold wind, and I climbed all day with two puffies on, but the climbing was nonetheless quite enjoyable - mostly moderate and on excellent quality rock. @patagonia_climb @petzl_official @lasportivana @trailbutter
========================================================================= -- Alan Arnette -- Winter K2 and Everest Updates

K2 Česen Route aka Basque Route    --  Please log in 

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Wielicki for RMF FM: Bielecki and Urubko are at 6800 meters. Titanic work of boys below
1 hour 14 minutes ago
The participants of the Polish winter expedition to K2 reached the height of 6,800 meters, that is the last 8,000th of this season, which was not at this time of the year. Adam Bielecki and Denis Urubko will spend the night there. Tomorrow they are going to defeat another part of the road. "They will lead further to the Black Pyramid, they will want to" climb "and, if the weather permits, set up a tent for the Black Pyramid - for 7100, 7200 or 7300. This is the plan" - says RMF FM from the base for K2 the expedition leader Krzysztof Wielicki. "The other two teams worked in the wall, insuring to the second camp with ropes, one team goes down and the other tomorrow will be carrying equipment and a tent there" - adds Michał Rodak in an interview with RMF FM journalist. Poles will want to use two more days of favorable conditions. Later, the weather breaks out.



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Mission to Mermoz.
We decided we'd had enough of heavy packs on moraine and stormy tentbound days. Our solution was a sleepless single push on Mermoz, Fitzroy's neighbour. We left town after dinner and arrived at the base of the 18-pitch route just before dawn.
The first six hours of climbing was frozen choss covered in verglas and long shivering belays, we questioned our sanity.
On the sunny, windless summit ridge that was instantly forgotten - golden granite, spectacular views of Fitzroy, fast entertaining climbing, and the descent was a non-event.
After 30hrs on the go, we lay down in the forest for a comfortable bivvy near the road. This was rudely interrupted an hour later with hard rain at 5am, and the sufferfest resumed...    

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