Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Aguja Guillaumet E Face (Patagonia) + Cerro Torre via del Ragni (Patagonia ) + Alex Txikon C1 + Cerro Huemul E face (Patagonia)

Aguja Guillaumet East Face by Eneko and Iker Pou (Spain) in Patagonia from Facebook
Cerro Torre via del Ragni in Patagonia by the New Zealand Alpine team - from Facebook
Alex Txikon at Camp 1 on Everest in winter - barrabes.com (Spanish)
Cerro Huemul - East Face (Patagonia) by Ted McCrea and Jon Griffith - from Facebook



Needle Guillaumet, face this, new route / new route

In early February, eneko and iker pou @hermanospou opened a new track in the east face of the needle guillaumet. " Attaboy 40!" Scale 400 vertical meters with difficulties of until m7 85 ˚ and 5 +. was open on the day and in free (mixed). There's nothing left of team on the track. The name is in reference to the 40 years that he served iker for ascension. For a repeat need a camalots game, a game of stoppers, two screws and a nail. The descent is done by the guillot or Amy. Happy 40 Iker!

In early February, Eneko and Iker Pou opened a new route on the east face of Aguja Guillaumet. “¡Aupa 40!” climbs 400 meters of vertical gain with difficulties to M7 85˚ and 5+. It was opened in a day and climbing free (mixed). Not a single piece of gear was left in place. The name is in reference to Iker’s 40th birthday, which was the day of the ascent. For a repeat take a set of Camalots, a set of Stoppers, two ice-screws and a couple of pitons. The descent if either via the Guillot or the Amy. Happy belated birthday Iker!


Last Friday New Zealand Alpine Team memberDaniel Joll & Kim Ladiges climbed Cerro Torre's West Face via the Ragni Route. It has been a hard season in Patagonia this year and their ascent was the first of Cerro Torre for the season. Kim did a stellar job on the final pitch, with a storm fast approaching and short of time, deciding not to tunnel the final mushroom. Instead he climbed it on the o... See More
 — with Daniel JollKim Ladiges,Jetboil NZTENDONMacpac and Bobo Products.

http://www.barrabes.com/actualidad/noticias/2-9967/alex-txikon-campo-1-everest.html  --  C1 Everest in winter with Alex Txikon

After 3 days of intense work, Alex Txikon and his team reopen the waterfall of the khumbu! Almost 60 % of the route is new, devoured by the glacier...
Tomorrow, rest, and past... towards the field 2...
Attempt 1th historic peak winter on Everest without use of supplemental oxygen...


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Tad Mccrea and Jonathan Griffin opened down a new road in the east face of huemul hill. "the train I can't stop" was named in tribute to iñaki coussirat. Close since chaltén, but surely it's shorter from bahia tunnel. The end wall has about 400 vertical meters and apart from the last over and a half, the rock is surprisingly good. To reach the upper glacier got to climb several sections, some with rope. A while ago that this face was in the sights of several.

Tad McCrea and Jonathan Griffin have climbed a new route on the east face of Cerro Huemul. "El tren que no puede parar” was christened in memory of Iñaki Coussirat. They approached from Chalten, but it might be easier to approach from Bahia Túnel. The upper headwall is around 400 meters high and except for the last pitch and a half, offers surprisingly good rock. Getting to the upper glacier involves a bit of climbing, some roped. This was a “blank in the map” that was “begging” to be filled.

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