Monday, January 21, 2019

K2 Harsh Weather Scaling Vow + Silver Peak Loop (Sierras) + Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort (Mont Blanc Massif) +

Climbers shrug off harsh weather, Vow to scale K2 - from
Silver Peak Loop (N Sierras) - Trip report with pictures - from Leor Pantilat's blog (California)
Aiguille Rouges de Rochefort, new climb on the Mont Blanc Massif - from
Ecuador Volcanoes 2019 : Ready for Cayambe - from Alan Arnette's blog

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The last few days have been very eventful. We acclimatized on the local mountains, visited the local market and went to 15,000 feet on Cayambe and now are are at 11,000 feet preparing to go up tonight for a summit attempt starting midnight.

I haven't seen the volcano but everyone tells me it's behind the cloud so I have to trust them. When we went up yesterday and there was a light rain but strong winds probably 30 mph, so instead of making a day walk up to the glacier we just spent three hours in the hut at 15,000 feet. I know I know ðŸ™‚.
I have had a small set of problems mainly G.I. issues. I'm not sure what I ate or drank but something didn't agree with me so I spent about 24 hours doing colonoscopy prep then purging like a supermodel but now I'm feeling fine.

We have a very nice international team that is motivated and excited to be here. The Mountain Madness leadership is stellar.

I continue to be overwhelmed with the beauty of Ecuador, the rolling hills covered with grass, the volcanoes, the mountain hillsides and especially the people of this is a special country.


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  Leo billion, max bonniot and Pierre Carving arrived at el chaltén last day Tuesday. They had been following the weather and saw a three-day window and thought to try the southeast edge of Cerro Torre. The first day left from chaltén and arrived to the col of patience, where they slept inside a crack. On the second day there was pretty wind, but they also managed to get to the foot of the final wall, where they spent several hours carving a platform for their tent above the ice towers. That night there was a lot of wind and thought I'd have to get down the next day, but as dawn dawned decided In the final wall followed the lama-Ortner variant, and they had quite difficulty because many of the shots and fissures had ice or snow. They reached the summit at 10:30 am of the third day, with winds from up to 80 km / h. They started down immediately, and that same day they returned to the chaltén, completing the seventh ascent of the southeast edge of cerro torre in just three days round and back from the village! The one of them was the first and only ascension of cerro torre in what goes of the season.

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