Monday, August 26, 2019

Hard Solo Climbing in Patagonia + 4 Ridges of the Matterhornin Under 24 Hours + Siberians Climb Blok and Engels

A brief visit to Patagonia, and reflections on hard solo climbing -Trip Report + pictures - Colin Haley
4 Ridges of the Matterhorn in under 24 hours for Kacper Tekieli - from Rock and Ice magazine
Siberians climb Blok and Engels - from website -- Colin Haley -- A brief visit to Patagonia, Reflections on Hard solo climbing -- 4 Ridges of the Matterhorn in under 24 hours for Kacper Tekieli   --  Siberians climb Blok and Engels

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(Aug 26, 2019) new!
Siberians at the peaks of Blok and Engels. Climb Details
The peak of the Five-thousandth Block is adjacent to Aksu, but unlike it, it is more or less safe (Aksu is crowned with a snow-ice cap with which stones and ice constantly fly in the summer).
About the passed line:
Presumably 6A, A3, wi5-6.
The difference is approximately 800m, the wall part is 700m. The route length has not yet been considered, but the first 7 sections to the ice stream are close to 90, or they are hanging.
According to Engels, the second ascent from the North to this mountain and the first along the North Wall since 1991.
The area of ​​Engels peak is now rarely visited by climbers, due to the fact that climbing to Engels peak requires well-coordinated work of a team of at least 3-4 people with experience in both technical and high-altitude ascents (Engels peak height is 6500 m). In the 70-80 years, routes of the highest complexity were laid along the North and North-East wall of Engels, awarded gold at the Union Championship:
Efimov, Gaas, Chunovkin. The wall drop is about 2000 meters, in places there are extended sections of overhangs, up to 300m.
Despite the popularity of the mountain during the Union, there is a “white spot” in the center of the wall, in the literal and figurative sense:
The route passes through the snowy fields in the center of the wall. Again, I would like to go the route to the maximum with free climbing, in a good style, as quickly as possible.
Meanwhile, the current message from the team (08.28.2019):
The weather turned bad. Today were all the charms of winter Archie. Dust avalanches constantly descend from the wall. A day passed a hundred meters. We climbed into the platform. Dry the oars

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First ascent on this day, 1971.08.26; Kunyang Chhish (7852 m) by a Polish party.
Khunyang Chhish [or Kunyang Chhish (Urdu: کنیانگ چش‎)] lies in the heart of the Hispar Muztagh, north of the Hispar Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the Karakorum. It rises on the southwest side of the Khunyang Glacier while Distaghil Sar (the highest peak of the Hispar Muztagh) dominates the glacier on its northern end.
Khunyang Chhish is the twenty-first highest independent mountain in the world. It is also notable for its rise above local terrain: for example, it rises almost 4,000 metres (2.5 mi) above its southern base camp on the Khunyang Glacier, and it rises 5,500 metres (3.4 mi) above the Hunza valley in about 33 kilometres (21 mi). It is a steep, pointed, and complex peak; it easily rivals the slightly higher Distaghil Sar to the North, which has a more rounded profile.


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