Sunday, January 19, 2020

Top Slovenian Climber Dies in Alps + Simone and Tamara Escape in Crevasse Collapse +

Top Slovenian climber Grega Lacen dies in the Alps - from Gripped Magazine website
Simone and Tamara escape unhurt in small crevasse collapse as teams resurface after the storm - from
Rupal Peak (6100m) Pakistan with Jamsheed Ahmed -- Top Slovenian climberGrega Lacen dies in the Alps

Top Slovenian Climber Grega Lačen Dies in Alps - Gripped Magazine -- Simone and Tamara escape unhurt in small crevasse collapse as teams resurface after the storm

All's well that ends well.
Without going too far around the concept, yesterday we really came just a breath away from a tragic and disastrous epilogue for both Tamara and me.
We were planning to spend two nights on the mountain, reach camp 1, sleep there and then head to camp 2 the next day.
We were FINALLY out of the icefall, we had passed the last big crevasse and proceeded to the summit plateau. Always tied up because we knew that the crevasses were always lurking and antennas were always straight but the morale was high and the satisfaction of having overcome everything.
The big ice maze.
But the day was not over and what lay ahead was terrible.
Approaching a crevasse I put myself in position as always to secure Tamara who first crossed it and then moved into the safety zone, 20 meters beyond the crevasse.
Then it was my turn and after a split second, a chasm opened under my feet and I fell. Tamara suffered such a violent tear that she literally flew to the edge of the crevasse while I free falling upside down for 20 meters banging back legs and buttocks on the blades of ice suspended in the endless gut where I continued to descend. No more than 50 cm wide, in complete darkness.


Jamsheed Ahmed
 is with 
Edward Harry

Wahoo! 6100m high and it felt too good to be true. All credit to the amazing Pakistanis who helped me along and up the way to push summit rupal peak
my original plans but I still got my eyes on this unbelievable land!

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It hit us again. A big loss for Slovenian climbing community. Cca 10 years ago, when I was still a student and hungry as hell for climbing I didn’t make any money with climbing yet but I dreamed of it. I guess those years were crucial for me to get to where I am now and exactly in this years Grega Lačen and his successful company gave me support without expecting anything back. We shared the rope here or there and I was always impressed how he combined climbing with managing his company. Grega, hvala ti za vse! @ El Chaltén


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