Saturday, February 29, 2020

Winter Everest : Mixed Feelings + Guide's Body Found on Annapurna + Bad Weather Halts 3 Everest Climbs + Cerro de la Plata (Chile) First Ascent

Winter Everest : Mixed Feelings - Report with pictures from website
Body of Nepali guide missing in Annapurna avalanche found. - from the Katmandu Post
Inclement weather halts all three winter Everest expeditions - from the Katmandu Post
CHILE , Palena Province, Cerro de la Plata, "Ballando con la lluvia - First Ascent -Patagonia Vrt

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Winter Everest : Mixed Feelings  -- Body of Nepali guide missing in Annapurna avalanche found. -- Inclement weather halts all three winter Everest expeditions -- CHILE, Palena Province, Cerro de la Plata, " Ballando con lluvia - First Ascent

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Over three weeks, Max Didier, Austin Siadak, Ian Siadak and Siebe Vanhee climbed a new route on a 650-meter granite wall that rises from Laguna de la Plata, directly across from Serrania Avalancha, an small piece of heaven west of Puerto Cardenas, in the Palena Province, Chile.
.They climbed 16 pitches, finding difficulties to 7a. Although it is very green on either side of the wall, little cleaning was needed, generally much less than in Cochamo. Most pitches could be free-climbed straight away. The rock is only slightly more alpine-grained than Yosemite, and there seem to be cracks everywhere, so much so that one could easily make half a dozen worthy variations to their route. Austin suggests that if someone built a proper trail to this area, this could become a very popular spot


Yesterday (Feb. 27) was Alex’s last day of the season in El Chaltén. The weather forecast looked marginal, but in any case we needed to retrieve equipment from Piedra Negra, and thus figured we might as well try to climb something small if conditions allowed. The weather was better than expected, which was a pleasant surprise, except that we wished we had gone for something bigger! In any case, it turned out to be a long and excellent day. From Piedra Negra we traversed north to the base of Cerro Electrico Oeste, a sharp craggy peak made of metamorphic rock (the dark-red peak in the mid-background of photo 1). Over a few hours we simul-soloed the entire north-to-south ridgeline of Cerro Electrico Oeste, which included many mini summits in addition to the highest summit. The sharpest of these mini summits is a very slender needle clearly visible from areas near Piedra Negra, and descending the south side of this needle was the one time we used the rope, making a 30m rappel. Wearing rock shoes while Alex climbed in approach shoes allowed me to feel comfortable on all the unroped climbing, although there were a few sections, particularly down climbing, that were at the upper limit of my comfortable free-soloing. Amazingly, it sounds quite likely that this was the first time Cerro Electrico Oeste had ever been climbed. From Paso Cuadrado we continued southwards along the ridge, first passing two granite towers on the west side, and then regaining the ridge crest one tower before the start of the Giordani “sit start.” We continued simul-soloing up the Giordani, and then finally put on the rope at the base of the Comesaña-Fonrouge, which we simul-climbed in two pitches. In essence, our route was a “super sit start” to the Comesaña-Fonrouge. We had a mini epic while descending the Amy Couloir (my first major problem since I began experimenting with the Beal Escaper), and made it back to town quite late at night. A few hours later, Alex was boarding a bus to the airport - at least it is a good recipe for managing to sleep on the plane! The first photo is of Alex on the Giordani, and the second photo is of Alex some

The first photo is of Alex on the Giordani, and the second photo is of Alex somewhere on Cerro Electrico Oeste. @patagonia_climb @ El Chaltén
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